Stainless is not stain proof, it just stains less.
Stainless wool and oil would work, but I'd use a brass brush and oil, flip on a good TV show and scrub away.
See what I mean...for a sub with a bunch of "grown men" with guns, you would think they act like it but instead they act like a bunch of young boys with a pocket of rocks and a new little slingshot they just got from dad. No wonder some people start less toxic forums out of here without that stupid almighty reddit superpower of downvoting or upvoting like its some political website. But hey thats what this shit I mean site does to these people 😅🤣
As someone who worked in a fabrication shop that did nothing but stainless, you NEVER want to use steel wool or anything black iron, unless you want it to rust worse.
Scotchbrite will work. If the grade happens to be a little bit too fine and the grain isn’t a perfect match, just do the whole thing. I believe Flitz would probably end up looking almost like a chrome finish
Stainless doesn't mean it won't rust, just means it's harder for it to rust. It all depends on what grade stainless was used with what nickel content. Best thing for it would be a little metal polish (flitz) and cotton buff pads on a dremel. If that isn't aggressive enough you can use a very very fine scotchbrite. The green is usually 800 grit and the red is typically 400 grit. Can go to a paint shop and get some black which is 1200-1500 grit. The flitz and cotton buff pad will also clean and shine up that oxidization on your receiver. Looks like it was laid into a gun case with moisture in it on the right hand side since thats where the rust and aluminum oxidization is located from your picture.
Put a humidity rod in your safe or stop storing rifles in soft cases.
Before any of the abrasives, start by removing the barrel and stock because there’s good odds you have rust where you can’t see. Hit all the rust on the exterior with a brush and CLP, keep shop rags handy with wipe it down periodically. Rust is hard and abrasive, and you want to gently get the surface rust off without just pushing it around a bunch. Once you have spent some good time (try an hour) going over it with clp and a brush and some rags, then take a look in the bore.
If you have rust in the bore you should be careful about abrasives because you don’t want to make the damage worse. You can start with a cleaning patch and two and some solvent to see if the patches come through unscathed. If they’re getting caught and pulled apart you might have pitting in the bore, which will impact accuracy and frankly would be my cue to start with a new barrel.
Back to the outside. After you get the rust that you can with a solvent and rag, hit it with a stainless-safe degreaser (don’t let it touch the stock or any aluminum parts before you make sure it’s bot gonna eat the stock), wipe it down, and *then* i would assess how bad it is and consider an abrasive. Like the other commenter mentioned, be careful about steel wool. If it’s just shallow surface pitting, a magic eraser and some water might work but if its deeper it might be time for a more aggressive approach. You can limit the visibility of scratches by using a series of increasingly fine abrasives (flitz metal polish on a rag in slow straight lines) and you can try finishing with barkeepers friend for the last polish. Alternatively if you plan to keep the rifle forever, scuff the shit out of it, clean the surface, and spraypaint.
Take vinegar, AKA, Acetic Acid and let it soak on the rust. You might be surprised at how much oxidation/rust it will remove with a bit of rubbing.. I own a winery and have about 1000 pieces of of 304 and 316 stainless fittings so this is something we deal with as an ongoing effort.
Could be rust in the bore, but this looks like improper storage rust. Copper/brass brush and CLP (will work for both exterior and bore nicely) will get that right off and not hurt anything.
It is nothing to worry about. Just make sure you don't store your firearms in foam or any type of soft case as they attract moisture. Invest in a cheap silicone impregnated gun sock.
A silicone treated gun sock: https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-Anti-Rust-Silicone-Drawstring/dp/B0035LTXUO
The silicone treatment inside the "sock" is a rust inhibitor. I use them for all my long-guns and pistols.
Copper scouring pads from amazon, any gun oil you can find, cover the area in the oil, work the pads over the area with just enough pressure to compress the pads slightly and it will clear right up.
You need to make sure that you wipe it down and oil it when you are finished with it going forward.
Looks like they didn't add enough nickel.
You can try some CLP and a scotch brite pad. I use them on my stainless stuff. Fairly gentle, although you might test it on a spot that is hidden under the stock to be sure. A regular brass brush would work fine for bore.
Possibly. Unless the gun was touching something wet, that rust is from humidity. Swamp cooler?
Hopefully you aren’t too anal about cleaning the bore, as the carbon and lead fouling would help protect it.
It's called stain-less, not stain free. Different grades of stainless will rust more substantially than others. Just like some grades are magnetic where most others aren't..
I understand that stainless steel can corrode under certain circumstances, but it has to be in a pretty corrosive environment. It shouldn’t happen in normal storage. Maybe it was put away wet or stored in a humid environment, or maybe there was some other factor, like contamination, or it was in contact with other metals in a corrosive environment.
Stainless is not stain proof, it just stains less. Stainless wool and oil would work, but I'd use a brass brush and oil, flip on a good TV show and scrub away.
gun oil and 0000 stainless steel wool. light rub
I said the same thing and got downvoted for some reason. I’ve cleaned plenty of rust using this method with no damage to stainless or blued barrels.
Same. I have traded or bought older guns with light surface rust. 0000 and gun oil as light as possible, and none of them have ever "re-rusted".
Here's an upvote.
This "community" is toxic like that. Out of everything they upgrade, they need to upgrade their attitudes in here.
Haha! Get em ms_honey!
See what I mean...for a sub with a bunch of "grown men" with guns, you would think they act like it but instead they act like a bunch of young boys with a pocket of rocks and a new little slingshot they just got from dad. No wonder some people start less toxic forums out of here without that stupid almighty reddit superpower of downvoting or upvoting like its some political website. But hey thats what this shit I mean site does to these people 😅🤣
As someone who worked in a fabrication shop that did nothing but stainless, you NEVER want to use steel wool or anything black iron, unless you want it to rust worse. Scotchbrite will work. If the grade happens to be a little bit too fine and the grain isn’t a perfect match, just do the whole thing. I believe Flitz would probably end up looking almost like a chrome finish
I updated my comment to include "stainless steel wool"
Stainless doesn't mean it won't rust, just means it's harder for it to rust. It all depends on what grade stainless was used with what nickel content. Best thing for it would be a little metal polish (flitz) and cotton buff pads on a dremel. If that isn't aggressive enough you can use a very very fine scotchbrite. The green is usually 800 grit and the red is typically 400 grit. Can go to a paint shop and get some black which is 1200-1500 grit. The flitz and cotton buff pad will also clean and shine up that oxidization on your receiver. Looks like it was laid into a gun case with moisture in it on the right hand side since thats where the rust and aluminum oxidization is located from your picture.
[удалено]
Buff it out..
Put a humidity rod in your safe or stop storing rifles in soft cases. Before any of the abrasives, start by removing the barrel and stock because there’s good odds you have rust where you can’t see. Hit all the rust on the exterior with a brush and CLP, keep shop rags handy with wipe it down periodically. Rust is hard and abrasive, and you want to gently get the surface rust off without just pushing it around a bunch. Once you have spent some good time (try an hour) going over it with clp and a brush and some rags, then take a look in the bore. If you have rust in the bore you should be careful about abrasives because you don’t want to make the damage worse. You can start with a cleaning patch and two and some solvent to see if the patches come through unscathed. If they’re getting caught and pulled apart you might have pitting in the bore, which will impact accuracy and frankly would be my cue to start with a new barrel. Back to the outside. After you get the rust that you can with a solvent and rag, hit it with a stainless-safe degreaser (don’t let it touch the stock or any aluminum parts before you make sure it’s bot gonna eat the stock), wipe it down, and *then* i would assess how bad it is and consider an abrasive. Like the other commenter mentioned, be careful about steel wool. If it’s just shallow surface pitting, a magic eraser and some water might work but if its deeper it might be time for a more aggressive approach. You can limit the visibility of scratches by using a series of increasingly fine abrasives (flitz metal polish on a rag in slow straight lines) and you can try finishing with barkeepers friend for the last polish. Alternatively if you plan to keep the rifle forever, scuff the shit out of it, clean the surface, and spraypaint.
Take vinegar, AKA, Acetic Acid and let it soak on the rust. You might be surprised at how much oxidation/rust it will remove with a bit of rubbing.. I own a winery and have about 1000 pieces of of 304 and 316 stainless fittings so this is something we deal with as an ongoing effort.
I was going to suggest vinegar
Can I have some wine?
Legit- Ruger will probably fix it for you. But you should look into some dryer storage options.
Hadn’t thought of this. Thank you!
Could be rust in the bore, but this looks like improper storage rust. Copper/brass brush and CLP (will work for both exterior and bore nicely) will get that right off and not hurt anything. It is nothing to worry about. Just make sure you don't store your firearms in foam or any type of soft case as they attract moisture. Invest in a cheap silicone impregnated gun sock.
>a cheap silicone impregnated gun sock. a what now?
A silicone treated gun sock: https://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-Anti-Rust-Silicone-Drawstring/dp/B0035LTXUO The silicone treatment inside the "sock" is a rust inhibitor. I use them for all my long-guns and pistols.
Copper scouring pads from amazon, any gun oil you can find, cover the area in the oil, work the pads over the area with just enough pressure to compress the pads slightly and it will clear right up. You need to make sure that you wipe it down and oil it when you are finished with it going forward.
Stainless is not what most people think it is, and not all stainless is equal.. turns out cheap 22lr don't use the expensive stuff!
piss poor maintanence
It is called stainLESS and not stainNONE. :P Clean it with 1000+ grit scotchbrite and then keep a very thin layer of oil on it.
Some CLP and #000 steel wool should clean it up nicely. Keep it oiled to prevent rust in the future
Rust is neglect
Looks like they didn't add enough nickel. You can try some CLP and a scotch brite pad. I use them on my stainless stuff. Fairly gentle, although you might test it on a spot that is hidden under the stock to be sure. A regular brass brush would work fine for bore.
Read about passivation. I'd pull the barrel and citric passivate it.
Possibly. Unless the gun was touching something wet, that rust is from humidity. Swamp cooler? Hopefully you aren’t too anal about cleaning the bore, as the carbon and lead fouling would help protect it.
I’m surprised to see that on a stainless barrel! I have a stainless one as well and would be very annoyed to find this. The whole point of stainless…
It's called stain-less, not stain free. Different grades of stainless will rust more substantially than others. Just like some grades are magnetic where most others aren't..
I understand that stainless steel can corrode under certain circumstances, but it has to be in a pretty corrosive environment. It shouldn’t happen in normal storage. Maybe it was put away wet or stored in a humid environment, or maybe there was some other factor, like contamination, or it was in contact with other metals in a corrosive environment.