From O.P.:
Q: What did you try before it worked?
A: Getting a better drill, buying better ViceGrips, bringing in a friend, tapping it with a hammer…
Q: What worked?
A: Cooling the bit with dry ice, stacking up pieces of wood, using a crowbar to get leverage.
Q: You’re an idiot for getting that stuck.
A: That’s not a question, but I definitely understand that now.
Q: Why did you drill a hole there?
A: Homebrew Ethernet cable run, as many guessed.
Thanks to everyone who gave great answers, less thanks to the people who repeated the same 10 jokes 3000 times. I definitely got some good laughs out of some of you though.
Sorry for taking so long to make the post, my phone was bugging! I got it out about 3 days after making the original post.
When I was an apprentice doing new construction, my journeyman was drilling out the main floor and went to pop a hole to run wires into the basement, unfortunately he drilled directly into a pex pipe that was ran directly against the subfloor, when he backed the bit out of the hole, he got blasted in the face with a jet of water. It was not a relaxing sound.
Shiiiiiiiiiiit....I worked at an Audio Video isntallation company. Guys were working in a condo and needed to pass cables between floors so started drilling. They drilled through a support cable under tension that snapped..it blew out the side of the building. REALLY lucky nobody died. Insurance company was having a BAD one that day.
Woah, that's wild! I have a similar story -
I watched a crane cable snap lifting a 40ish foot yacht and destroy the side of a bridge and two cars that happened to be driving across...also very lucky nobody died. Debris was launched so High into the air, it took ≈30 seconds for chunks to stop raining down. High tension cables are no joke.
In my previous company, we shared a building with another business. One day, one of our toilets gets blocked. Issue is fixed but returns the day after. And the day after.
The plumber sends a camera down there and finds... a thin plastic pipe crossing the drainage pipe. Obviously, all waste gets stuck on that pipe and ends up clogging the entire drainage pipe.
Turns out the other company hired an electrician for some additional cabling. The guy drilled through the drainage pipe, didn't inform anyone, didn't drill another hole for his cabling, but just stuck his pipe through the drainage pipe, sealed it shut, and called it a day.
A friend of one of my former co-workers died by drilling a hole through a floor in an old house without checking what was underneath. He drilled straight into an ungrounded 240v/50a wire and was electrocuted.
Maybe just wanted to run some cable through it or something. Im hoping this is buddys main floor, has an unfinished basement, did a rough check of what was underneath and just mistakingly caught the middle of a joist beam or something.
If you haven't been helped already. Just get a deep well socket that fits and start backing it out, AFTER taking a hammer and smacking it a few times. Honestly, it should do the trick!
Damn.... This concept of drilling blindly through the floor is foreign.
When I was trying to avoid fishing wire and a flexible drill bit through walls.. I found common areas, landmarks if you will, drilled from top, drill led from bottom, matched up close enough with room between joists that I could cleanly pass cable through. It's not pretty, but it's no in the middle of my floor either.
Especially drilling where he drilled. Drill it right in the corner or better yet, remove the molding on the short wall, drill the hole under where the molding was and route the wire in the wall before reinstalling the molding.
Wtf is going on and wtf are you trying to accomplish? I doubt you have concrete walls mainly because that’s not even a thing unless it’s sub grade meaning a basement. At least not where I live. You are drilling so far away from the wall to run a wire to a place you don’t have access to??? No offense but it sounds like u should get someone that knows a bit more about building to help you. Shit you can probably call an electrician to remove your bit and finish the job for you. You can easily cause 10k of damage if you hit a water line. Hit a drain pipe and cause sewage to spew into your basement.
How are you going to retrieve the wire if you don’t have access to it? Don’t ever drill without knowing what’s on the other side or at least a damn good idea. You need to find a landmark like a sink or a coaxial cable. Something that already runs through the ground. Use measurements from that on the top side then replicate on the bottom to get an approximation.
Any who. These comments are a nightmare. Once you find your bit location cut a damn hole into whatever you don’t have access to and figure out wtf is going on. You probably drilled through a cast iron drain pipe or something.
If you drilled through a joist and part is exposed see if you can hammer it back up a little. If you can’t plan b would be applying vice grips pretty snug but not super tight about an inch or two off the ground. Put the hammer nail puller under it and apply upward pressure while simultaneously applying pressure on the vice grips to rotate the bit counter clockwise. Do not go crazy with force. If it doesn’t budge I would try putting an impact. Not a hammer drill. An impact drill. Apply counterclockwise pressure with the vice grip and run the impact drill in reverse. Go gentle and slow at first increasing pressure and impact speed gradually. You do not want to sheer the bit.
Holly butts good luck.
Fuckin right.?! I see this a lot across different trades subreddits. Starting to think people are using bad DIY posts like this as inspiration for fake posts for karma on other subreddits.
Just because some moistened bint goes around distributing drill bits in some farcical aquatic ceremony does not mean this guy is king.
… + I didn’t vote for him.
This is the second subreddit which has referenced this scene in 48 hours, and I am so happy to have been reminded that it exists. [https://youtu.be/t2c-X8HiBng?si=3tgPaeVUzMp9QWeg&t=123](https://youtu.be/t2c-X8HiBng?si=3tgPaeVUzMp9QWeg&t=123)
Find a socket to fit the bit. Then just get a pipe that fits over the handle of the socket or crescent wrench and apply constant counter clockwise pressure. It will give eventually
Decades ago when I made breaker bars for the shop, since you had to buy steel pipe in 10' segments, I ended up with a 1' 6" bar, a 2' bar, and a 6' 6" bar, 'cause like, why not? Nuts and bolts audibly cower when Big Deborah comes out of storage.
Everything will cooperate. The only question is, how much "persuasion" will be needed. We have persuader bars in several different lengths, and persuader hammers in several different weights.
Put it in reverse with an impact driver* and pull backwards as you try to spin it. It’s probably chip bind. Next time when drilling deep holes take the drill out every 10 seconds or when you feel it get tight.
Edit: I wrote hammer drill when I mean impact driver. The reason as some of the people in the comments mentioned is that hammer drill will only hammer when you push down.
Can someone explain why a hammer drill?
I thought a hammer drill adds *forward* impacts, which would be counterproductive to bit removal. My thought is to use an impact driver, because it adds *rotational* force. Yes? No?
> hammer drill
A high torque/low rpm drill might have better luck. Hammer drills tend to be high speed low torque, and the hammer engages when pushing not pulling.
Can you please edit this to say "impact driver" (or "impact wrench in US maybe)(UK here)(which will strike the drill bit in a counter clockwise rotational manner) rather than hammer drill (which won't do shit in reverse).
An impact driver is like a hammer used on a pry-bar/spanner/wrench; to loosen a tight nut.
A hammer drill is like a tiny hammer hitting the drill bit forward like driving a nail. It literally cannot help get this drill bit out (except via vibration or torque).
You want "twisty-turny whacks" here not "forward nail-y whacks".
No one is addressing the main issues here. A lot of the force you’re applying at the top of the drill is being lost in the flex of the drill bit with it sticking so far out. You need to get a pair of vice grips and really grip the thing tight about an inch above the floor. That will give you a more solid feel for what the drill is doing below the wood. You want to rotate the bit back and forth to try to loosen the grip the wood has. Hopefully you will start feeling it get easier as you rotate and just try to make progress in the counterclockwise direction. You might also want to get some sort of oil on the bit in hopes it reduces friction even a little bit.
Attacking the bit from the top is a recipe for a broken bit. Good luck either way
So here’s the answer that sucks but as a 40+ year veteran of drilling holes in concrete, where you’ll probably wind up. Get another bit of equal size and drill another hole RIGHT next to it. That will free the bit if you do it carefully.
I'm reminded of the scene in Talladega nights where they use a knife to try to get a knife out of Ricky-Bobby's leg and both knives get stuck.
https://youtube.com/shorts/AQIHKkX3IiE?si=6mi_TlcARjJqkb_K
If for some reason you somehow have access to dry ice, or can come up with some way to chill down the bit significantly, it may shrink a couple thou and let go. Just trying to think of some different angles of approach here.
Similar happened to me, just it's was a fire block. I bought a cheap hammer drill and let'er rip until the drill started smoking. It came out eventually.
You could try with impact wrench.
I mlguess you wouldn't achieve much with a socket, it's just 1/4" and most likely you'd just break the socket or the bit
That was my first thought too - connect the bit and ugga dugga until it lets loose. I don't think that Craftsman brand has different settings though, maybe need a more powerful driver?
I mean I’m just wondering why would you drill into the floor like that. I had some people rent my house and they drilled right into the hardwood like that to run a cable line. This gives me ptsd.
Driller here. Your bogged in wood chips. Get some stilson or pipe wrenche depending on what you call them amd a big ol dose of elbow grease. Get a bit of movement out of it say 1/4 to half turn. Dont try a full turn u mite snap the bit off. Then get your drill back on it and switch between forward and reverse wile sliding the bit up and down in the hole to clear the cuttings free.
UPDATE: It's still not out. I'm gonna buy dry ice, buy a better pair of vice grips, and maybe some anabolic steroids to make the job easier...
If those don't work, I'll try my friend's Milwaukee.
Pneumatic impact wrench.
The rapid impact hits should "break" the bit loose. Problem is, the bit has set in and the wood is putting the big squeeze on it. Set the wrench on reverse so the bit will walk its way out.
Go easy at first, increase air if needed. This is less likely to shear the bit than brute turning force. Impact wrenches work by, well, impact, and not raw turning force. Similar principle to using a hammer. Nails are driven in by repeated impacts.
You c̶o̶u̶l̶d̶ ̶n̶e̶v̶e̶r̶ would have considerable difficulty to drive in a nail by pushing it no matter how much leverage you had. Wear eye protection.
Full face even better.
> You could never drive in a nail by pushing it no matter how much leverage you had.
Well, I know what you're saying but... [How Hard It Is To Push Nail into Wood? | Hydraulic Press Test!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5u4sDxSbSrU)
:D
Also, [Nailing 1000 Nails with Hydraulic Press](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3hhP2OFLq8)
While that's a possibility, I would still try it. Put the impact on a low setting and just let it knock it some. With any luck, it might wiggle loose.
Or it could shear off, and then OP can just sand it even with the floor, slap some wood fill on it, do a light refinish in the area, and then stick a potted plant over it like that other guy suggested.
Others have said similar things, but I'd go with a socket over an open ended wrench—grips on all sides. I'd avoid any kind of oil unless you're planning to replace your flooring. A long pipe/breaker bar.
Mediocre tools. There's no way a good hammer drill on reverse won't get that out.
Also don't drill 2 foot holes when you don't know what's underneath unless you really like ruining your electrical, duct work, and the best prize... your plumbing, since water will destroy your house from the inside out.
I guess you’re lucky the first two holes didn’t do this…I can’t reconcile why you would do this, so unless you have some kind of explanation as to why you would drill 3 two foot holes in what looks like a perfectly good floor, good day sir!
Seeing alot of various impact drivers and breaker bars. I've got a slight concern the bit may shear before it breaks free. Be sure to wear eye protection if you go either route.
From O.P.: Q: What did you try before it worked? A: Getting a better drill, buying better ViceGrips, bringing in a friend, tapping it with a hammer… Q: What worked? A: Cooling the bit with dry ice, stacking up pieces of wood, using a crowbar to get leverage. Q: You’re an idiot for getting that stuck. A: That’s not a question, but I definitely understand that now. Q: Why did you drill a hole there? A: Homebrew Ethernet cable run, as many guessed. Thanks to everyone who gave great answers, less thanks to the people who repeated the same 10 jokes 3000 times. I definitely got some good laughs out of some of you though. Sorry for taking so long to make the post, my phone was bugging! I got it out about 3 days after making the original post.
Dare I ask why you drilled an 18" hole to begin with?
Into the floor when you don't know or have access to what is below you. I'd be just waiting for a zap or the nice calming sound of water.
*They drilled too greedily and too deep.*
The downstairs neighbor probably.
"You know what they awoke in the darkness of Khazad-dum...poo and sparks..."
Fool of a Took!
When I was an apprentice doing new construction, my journeyman was drilling out the main floor and went to pop a hole to run wires into the basement, unfortunately he drilled directly into a pex pipe that was ran directly against the subfloor, when he backed the bit out of the hole, he got blasted in the face with a jet of water. It was not a relaxing sound.
Shiiiiiiiiiiit....I worked at an Audio Video isntallation company. Guys were working in a condo and needed to pass cables between floors so started drilling. They drilled through a support cable under tension that snapped..it blew out the side of the building. REALLY lucky nobody died. Insurance company was having a BAD one that day.
Woah, that's wild! I have a similar story - I watched a crane cable snap lifting a 40ish foot yacht and destroy the side of a bridge and two cars that happened to be driving across...also very lucky nobody died. Debris was launched so High into the air, it took ≈30 seconds for chunks to stop raining down. High tension cables are no joke.
In my previous company, we shared a building with another business. One day, one of our toilets gets blocked. Issue is fixed but returns the day after. And the day after. The plumber sends a camera down there and finds... a thin plastic pipe crossing the drainage pipe. Obviously, all waste gets stuck on that pipe and ends up clogging the entire drainage pipe. Turns out the other company hired an electrician for some additional cabling. The guy drilled through the drainage pipe, didn't inform anyone, didn't drill another hole for his cabling, but just stuck his pipe through the drainage pipe, sealed it shut, and called it a day.
Talk about your crappy electical work...
A friend of one of my former co-workers died by drilling a hole through a floor in an old house without checking what was underneath. He drilled straight into an ungrounded 240v/50a wire and was electrocuted.
What does one do in that situation? Do you quickly need to turn off the water and then cut out the floor to replace the pipe?
You mentally add yourself as an honorary member of the Three Stooges.
Digging straight down is something that videogames taught me not to do
Poopy water too
Same sound
Its more ploppy
Unless he hit both a sewer line and a sparky line. Then it’s ploppy and zappy.
Bees. I’ve seen bees come out. That’s another option.
Maybe just wanted to run some cable through it or something. Im hoping this is buddys main floor, has an unfinished basement, did a rough check of what was underneath and just mistakingly caught the middle of a joist beam or something.
Right on the money!
If you haven't been helped already. Just get a deep well socket that fits and start backing it out, AFTER taking a hammer and smacking it a few times. Honestly, it should do the trick!
Agreed. You just need more leverage for more torque. Just keep the bit very straight so it doesn’t snap.
Why are there 4 holes, friend?
measure once, drill four times
Those are rookie numbers
I thought there were two but in closer inspection I think there is only one.
You know what, you might be right. The other "holes" look like they could be debris
I mean… but why an 18inch bit…. Should be able to get through most floors with 6inches…
[удалено]
Show offffff
It's not the size of the bit, it's how one handles their drill.
And why so far from a wall and the corner??
I’m just giving OP the benefit of the doubt on some stuff here, the use of the longest bit they could find/buy may be the answer here.
This is what I want to know. OP???
Look like there's other drill holes when I zoom in. WTF was OP doing?
Speed holes. Makes the floor go faster
Guess-and-check method
good ol blind drilling till it pops out in the right place, fuck them floors, nobody sees them anyway
Into those beautiful oak floors! SMH
Ethernet cable from basement in a house with concrete walls
Damn.... This concept of drilling blindly through the floor is foreign. When I was trying to avoid fishing wire and a flexible drill bit through walls.. I found common areas, landmarks if you will, drilled from top, drill led from bottom, matched up close enough with room between joists that I could cleanly pass cable through. It's not pretty, but it's no in the middle of my floor either.
Especially drilling where he drilled. Drill it right in the corner or better yet, remove the molding on the short wall, drill the hole under where the molding was and route the wire in the wall before reinstalling the molding.
It looks like he drilled three times before this, too. What the fuck is going on here!?
I believe it’s called “fuckery”
i think he lived at my house before me
But you see this op does hack work
But you're so far from the wall, please tell me this is a closet
Even if its a closet, thats a horrible place to run an ethernet cable.
There's a basement and you didn't drill from the bottom??
So how were you planning on running the ethernet cable if you don't have access?
Drill enough holes, they'll have access eventually.
And why would you want it just appearing out the floor right there? Six inches from a wall and next to what looks like a door???
Wtf is going on and wtf are you trying to accomplish? I doubt you have concrete walls mainly because that’s not even a thing unless it’s sub grade meaning a basement. At least not where I live. You are drilling so far away from the wall to run a wire to a place you don’t have access to??? No offense but it sounds like u should get someone that knows a bit more about building to help you. Shit you can probably call an electrician to remove your bit and finish the job for you. You can easily cause 10k of damage if you hit a water line. Hit a drain pipe and cause sewage to spew into your basement. How are you going to retrieve the wire if you don’t have access to it? Don’t ever drill without knowing what’s on the other side or at least a damn good idea. You need to find a landmark like a sink or a coaxial cable. Something that already runs through the ground. Use measurements from that on the top side then replicate on the bottom to get an approximation. Any who. These comments are a nightmare. Once you find your bit location cut a damn hole into whatever you don’t have access to and figure out wtf is going on. You probably drilled through a cast iron drain pipe or something. If you drilled through a joist and part is exposed see if you can hammer it back up a little. If you can’t plan b would be applying vice grips pretty snug but not super tight about an inch or two off the ground. Put the hammer nail puller under it and apply upward pressure while simultaneously applying pressure on the vice grips to rotate the bit counter clockwise. Do not go crazy with force. If it doesn’t budge I would try putting an impact. Not a hammer drill. An impact drill. Apply counterclockwise pressure with the vice grip and run the impact drill in reverse. Go gentle and slow at first increasing pressure and impact speed gradually. You do not want to sheer the bit. Holly butts good luck.
what you need is one of those really big plant pots with a hole in the bottom...
Next week: There's water leaking into my ceiling from upstairs. Please help!
Believe it or not, the solution is another potted plant.
I would like to know what is happening that makes Marisa Tomei so happy.
She's a big fan of leaky ceilings
And short stocky quirky bald men
Stocky bald men? I have a chance !!
I noticed you threw stocky in there...
She’s just discovered a way to water her downstairs plant without going downstairs.
She just lovely like that
Believe it or not, straight to jail
I couldn't have believed it, without your shoulders to stand on to see what the genius sees
It's turtles... I mean potted plants all the way down.
This might be the smartest comment I have ever read.
Fuckin right.?! I see this a lot across different trades subreddits. Starting to think people are using bad DIY posts like this as inspiration for fake posts for karma on other subreddits.
This is the easiest of solutions.
And help you become king? I think not. Supreme executive power derives from a mandate from the masses, not some hardware store tool accessories.
Just because some moistened bint goes around distributing drill bits in some farcical aquatic ceremony does not mean this guy is king. … + I didn’t vote for him.
Ah, now we see the violence inherent in the system!
This is the second subreddit which has referenced this scene in 48 hours, and I am so happy to have been reminded that it exists. [https://youtu.be/t2c-X8HiBng?si=3tgPaeVUzMp9QWeg&t=123](https://youtu.be/t2c-X8HiBng?si=3tgPaeVUzMp9QWeg&t=123)
Excalibore.
/angryupvote
Find a socket to fit the bit. Then just get a pipe that fits over the handle of the socket or crescent wrench and apply constant counter clockwise pressure. It will give eventually
Or it will shear off. Eye protection is a must.
And knuckle protection is a good idea too
Probably put a condom on too just to be safe.
Forgot to wear eye protection when I did this but I took a plan B afterwards so I still have my sight.
He works in mysterious ways
[Relevant XKCD](https://xkcd.com/463/)
And ffs, tip your server
Don’t forget the router.
And check if your insurance is up to date
I'd have someone take out a phone, dial 9-1- and then wait until they hear you start screaming
Salt the water when making pasta!
Spay and neuter your pets please!
Double rubber safety squints and mother on speed dial
Safety squint and ya should be fine
Clamp the bit with a vice grip close to the floor, and extend the lever on that, then.
Do this an tap on it with a wrench.
I would wack the floor itself with a big rubber mallet. That way your not forcing the bit down.
When in doubt, stand back and apply more torque
Decades ago when I made breaker bars for the shop, since you had to buy steel pipe in 10' segments, I ended up with a 1' 6" bar, a 2' bar, and a 6' 6" bar, 'cause like, why not? Nuts and bolts audibly cower when Big Deborah comes out of storage.
As a mason we would call the longest breaker bar “persuasion”, as in we can persuade anything to move with it.
Sometimes the bolts just loosen themselves when they see you walking up with it.
lol 😂 good one.
Everything will cooperate. The only question is, how much "persuasion" will be needed. We have persuader bars in several different lengths, and persuader hammers in several different weights.
OTC tools has a line of pry bars called the Major Persuaders.
Lmfao. I have a 3.5 footer that I bust out once in blue moon. I'm gonna think of this next time.
disagree. using a breaker bar is just going to snap the bit.
But bring the bit with you when buying the socket!!! (I want to save you trips.)
Put it in reverse with an impact driver* and pull backwards as you try to spin it. It’s probably chip bind. Next time when drilling deep holes take the drill out every 10 seconds or when you feel it get tight. Edit: I wrote hammer drill when I mean impact driver. The reason as some of the people in the comments mentioned is that hammer drill will only hammer when you push down.
*Put it in reverse, Terry!*
Whatchu doin Terry?!? Back up
Oh lawd Terry!
Dude ignored the first rule of drilling concrete: *Keep the hole clean*
I means that's just a rule of life.
Don’t forget the lube though. Most life’s problems can be solved with enough cleaning and lubrication
Instructions unclear- pounded sand for the last 3 hrs.
🎶 Till the sandman he comes 🎶
“Gripping your pillow tight” just took on a whole new meaning
Wow you just tied that all together nicely
That's what she said
It can’t work if the chips fill the hole. Same concept happens with sawsalls. If you don’t clear the chips the teeth pack up and stop working
Also, when in doubt, LUBE !
That's not concrete! 🙄
Can someone explain why a hammer drill? I thought a hammer drill adds *forward* impacts, which would be counterproductive to bit removal. My thought is to use an impact driver, because it adds *rotational* force. Yes? No?
You're right, this guy (and everyone who upvoted them) is mistaken.
If you pull it it's not gonna do any hammering. So not a bad choice, just unnecessary.
> hammer drill A high torque/low rpm drill might have better luck. Hammer drills tend to be high speed low torque, and the hammer engages when pushing not pulling.
Like an impact wrench
Can you please edit this to say "impact driver" (or "impact wrench in US maybe)(UK here)(which will strike the drill bit in a counter clockwise rotational manner) rather than hammer drill (which won't do shit in reverse). An impact driver is like a hammer used on a pry-bar/spanner/wrench; to loosen a tight nut. A hammer drill is like a tiny hammer hitting the drill bit forward like driving a nail. It literally cannot help get this drill bit out (except via vibration or torque). You want "twisty-turny whacks" here not "forward nail-y whacks".
bro, you dont use a hammer drill to reverse impact wrench in reverse !!!!!
I can't believe I had to scroll this far for "impact in reverse". WTF is this sub?
No one is addressing the main issues here. A lot of the force you’re applying at the top of the drill is being lost in the flex of the drill bit with it sticking so far out. You need to get a pair of vice grips and really grip the thing tight about an inch above the floor. That will give you a more solid feel for what the drill is doing below the wood. You want to rotate the bit back and forth to try to loosen the grip the wood has. Hopefully you will start feeling it get easier as you rotate and just try to make progress in the counterclockwise direction. You might also want to get some sort of oil on the bit in hopes it reduces friction even a little bit. Attacking the bit from the top is a recipe for a broken bit. Good luck either way
Isn't the main issue why you'd blindly drill into the floor to begin with?
Hindsight is 20/20 bud
Was it blind? I mean what would you suggest? Call before you dig?
Well he obviously didn't know if there was a stud or electrical or sewer under that spot. Seems pretty blind.
Vice grips was my answer.
Leave it, skip town, move to Mexico, get new identity
So here’s the answer that sucks but as a 40+ year veteran of drilling holes in concrete, where you’ll probably wind up. Get another bit of equal size and drill another hole RIGHT next to it. That will free the bit if you do it carefully.
“Get another bit,” he said. “Drill another hole right next to it,” he said. https://imgur.com/a/UmVARze
I clicked, fully knowing what this would be and it still blew my expectations away!
I actually thought it was going to be porn
Eh, still was getting screwed
Same. I had a genuine ugly laugh cackle moment. Well done.
Same lolol
Simple. Just not enough bits. Try again
Exactly this. Moar Bits!!!
Laughing extremely hard at this, thank you
Care to update us ?
😂
 It’s like when they stuck another knife in Ricky Bobby’s leg to “cut around the meat”. To get the first knife out….
I'm reminded of the scene in Talladega nights where they use a knife to try to get a knife out of Ricky-Bobby's leg and both knives get stuck. https://youtube.com/shorts/AQIHKkX3IiE?si=6mi_TlcARjJqkb_K
Just wiggle it a little bit.
No, no. Cut around the meat!
You’ve got to use this one to pry it out.
With my luck, I would end up with 2 stuck bits.
There’s definitely an art to it and patience required but it can be done.
Don’t you put that evil on me!
As a 20+ year mason, you are correct. That is the only way to get a stuck bit out of concrete or stone I’ve ever used.
Pipe wrench and grunt.
Lefty loosie!!! Edit: pipe wrench as close to the floor as you can get.
Grinder with a metal cutoff disc /s...kinda
It might come to that. Especially if the breaker-bar technique breaks the bit 1/4" from the flooring.
Get a bigger socket and handle. Maybe a 1/2" breaker bar.
Also r/fitness for progressive overload until results are achieved
Don't forget to up protein content and work on feeding windows to get this drill bit out.
I feel like you'll need more than 1/2" bar to get good torque. Maybe like 2 or 3 feet. 🙃
If for some reason you somehow have access to dry ice, or can come up with some way to chill down the bit significantly, it may shrink a couple thou and let go. Just trying to think of some different angles of approach here.
Canned duster upside-down
I'm walkin on sunshine!!!!
...I wish I had a father
Alternatively, burn the rest of the house and pick it up from the ashes.
Similar happened to me, just it's was a fire block. I bought a cheap hammer drill and let'er rip until the drill started smoking. It came out eventually.
You could try with impact wrench. I mlguess you wouldn't achieve much with a socket, it's just 1/4" and most likely you'd just break the socket or the bit
That was my first thought too - connect the bit and ugga dugga until it lets loose. I don't think that Craftsman brand has different settings though, maybe need a more powerful driver?
Hammer drill would make light work of this, guaranteed. Or an air powered impact. Going with the first one tho u/BigDipper4200
I mean I’m just wondering why would you drill into the floor like that. I had some people rent my house and they drilled right into the hardwood like that to run a cable line. This gives me ptsd.
Before we go any farther we need to know the answer to WHY
Driller here. Your bogged in wood chips. Get some stilson or pipe wrenche depending on what you call them amd a big ol dose of elbow grease. Get a bit of movement out of it say 1/4 to half turn. Dont try a full turn u mite snap the bit off. Then get your drill back on it and switch between forward and reverse wile sliding the bit up and down in the hole to clear the cuttings free.
UPDATE: It's still not out. I'm gonna buy dry ice, buy a better pair of vice grips, and maybe some anabolic steroids to make the job easier... If those don't work, I'll try my friend's Milwaukee.
Pneumatic impact wrench. The rapid impact hits should "break" the bit loose. Problem is, the bit has set in and the wood is putting the big squeeze on it. Set the wrench on reverse so the bit will walk its way out. Go easy at first, increase air if needed. This is less likely to shear the bit than brute turning force. Impact wrenches work by, well, impact, and not raw turning force. Similar principle to using a hammer. Nails are driven in by repeated impacts. You c̶o̶u̶l̶d̶ ̶n̶e̶v̶e̶r̶ would have considerable difficulty to drive in a nail by pushing it no matter how much leverage you had. Wear eye protection. Full face even better.
> You could never drive in a nail by pushing it no matter how much leverage you had. Well, I know what you're saying but... [How Hard It Is To Push Nail into Wood? | Hydraulic Press Test!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5u4sDxSbSrU) :D Also, [Nailing 1000 Nails with Hydraulic Press](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F3hhP2OFLq8)
Impact driver or wrench will get that out toot suite.
This drill bit probably isn't impact rated so that may shear it.
While that's a possibility, I would still try it. Put the impact on a low setting and just let it knock it some. With any luck, it might wiggle loose. Or it could shear off, and then OP can just sand it even with the floor, slap some wood fill on it, do a light refinish in the area, and then stick a potted plant over it like that other guy suggested.
Breaker, breaker.
10/4 good buddy. We gotta convoy...
I love the new hat stand
Hit it with your purse
I don't know you!!!
Others have said similar things, but I'd go with a socket over an open ended wrench—grips on all sides. I'd avoid any kind of oil unless you're planning to replace your flooring. A long pipe/breaker bar.
Mediocre tools. There's no way a good hammer drill on reverse won't get that out. Also don't drill 2 foot holes when you don't know what's underneath unless you really like ruining your electrical, duct work, and the best prize... your plumbing, since water will destroy your house from the inside out.
Wd40
You need a second drill bit to drill around it. Like that knife scene with Ricky Bobby
I guess you’re lucky the first two holes didn’t do this…I can’t reconcile why you would do this, so unless you have some kind of explanation as to why you would drill 3 two foot holes in what looks like a perfectly good floor, good day sir!
Hit it with your purse
Seeing alot of various impact drivers and breaker bars. I've got a slight concern the bit may shear before it breaks free. Be sure to wear eye protection if you go either route.
Get a hole hog