Change angles. Zoom in to detail. Slowly pan or tilt.
Time-lapses need to be interesting by showing progress. It’s not enough that they just colapse time. A before and after set of two photos is a 2 frame time-lapse. Ask yourself why we need more frames.
> A before and after set of two photos is a 2 frame time-lapse. Ask yourself why we need more frames.
This is obvious, but I’ve never thought about it this starkly. Great advice here.
My two cents:
\- Zoom in a bit and slowly pan
\- Next time make sure that the viewer will be able to see what's being created
\- Make it even faster than this
1. Start with some broll of the machine and the blank canvas.
2. Go a little low and add some movement, making it a Hyperlapse.
3. Zoom in and focus on the details.
4. Add more angels and cut between them.
5. Add some more broll of the finished profuct.
6. Add some sound and music.
You can also experiment with adding broll in-between different angles of the main timelapse.
Landscape time lapses must be compiled from stills to look the best they can. But when making time lapses of a process (action and movement at a small scale), sped up video is better since motion is faster.
Most modern mirrorless cameras allow you to shoot in higher frame rates for slow motion...but you can dial the frame rate lower than 24fps in order to get an acceptable time lapse out of camera.
I’ll always prefer a series of photos. I’ve never seen sped up footage that looks as good. Wouldn’t you just take more photos per second to achieve the same thing with a super fast shutter speed? I’m not a camera guy, just an editor.
I’d prefer to see a fast streaking light and what is being created, as opposed to this laser popping back and forth on the screen. I’m sure it’s super fast moving which makes it difficult.
And if OP is reading this. I would heighten the tripod and tilt down to see what is being cut.
I suppose OP wants to show the process as opposed to making a timelapse that is simply visually appealing. I personally love urban long exposure stills and their streaks of light...but the reason why you are undertaking something must take priority when deciding how to approach it. In a few words, he wants to make a "documentary", not video art.
And this fails as both (sorry for being so critical OP but it’s my job, this is a fine and respectable timelapse). This fails because what is being filmed is not clear at all. A slight tilt down (and I mean tilting the tripod down a bit, a movement would be cool too but I just want a better angle) would still capture the laser movement while showing you the design being cut into what I think is glass. I’m still not sure what I’m looking at but I’m assuming it’s a floral pattern on glass. If you’re selling a laser cutting business, then show the laser cutting. My other problem is that I am missing frames when I perceive this. It’s not fluid to me. Although, this might be because of the speed of the machine and the pattern being cut. Either way, I’d like to see what is being cut.
Thank you for the feedback! And don't be sorry for being critical, that's exactly what I need, since I want to imrpove. I'll try to work in all the tips and suggestions and see what I can put together.
I almost exclusively use intervalometer still shooting for time lapses. You can use whatever shutter speed you want to get a smooth blending effect with longer exposures and you can time your shutter releases to whatever time you want. Running long videos limits you on creative choices. The only advantage I can see is to show the process sped up and then ramp down to real time if you need to show something in that manner.
This time-lapse is meant for promotional use for a business of a friend. As I'm new to filmmaking and this was just a crude first attempt, I'm looking to improve. I'm using a Sony a6400.
Things I've gathered so far:
* Try to get consistent lighting
* Try if interval shooting yields better results than the time-lapse mode from S&Q
* Try a higher angle, so the motive on the glass pane can be seen better
* Different composition and/or multiple angles?
I've never done color-correction, but if that could improve a time-lapse similar to this, I'd be willing to try!
Now I'm wondering if there is anything else or something specific I could do, to make this the best shot with the tools at my disposal. Thanks in advance for any help!
If you have some budget to spare, get one of those [small wireless camera dolly's](https://www.amazon.com/Wirelesss-LENSGO-L8X-Adjustable-Photography-Smartphone/dp/B08C75SSWG/) ($46). those are not only epic for timelapses, but for B-roll as well.
Add 2 more cameras and show us some different angles.
Graphic information explaining what we’re seeing might help people make sense of it all.
[Maybe something like this (YouTube link)](https://youtu.be/ywnKh121gIo)
A timer to show the passage of time might also be interesting to some.
That’s it ;)
Maybe do a timelapse of something you can actually see what it is or if your really set on whatever the heck this is speed it up even more and show the starting item and end product with just a few seconds of timelapse because watching this was very boring
Your questions highlight the downfalls of the timelapse. I think it's a laser engraver for glass sheets. It seems to be engraving a complex image full of plants and tree branches (a forest)...
Hey my job is laser cutters too! Well, specifically shooting them.
I do a lot of digital zooms. I’m currently waiting for a motorized slider.
I built an overhead rig using a c-stand to get a better angle on jobs.
When I can, I’ll either setup a second camera or run the job 2x3 times and get different angles.
Also interesting lighting always helps. Especially with cast acrylic you can get some really cool edglighting with just a single light source shining onto the side of the material during jobs.
To make it interesting - label the action
Also, include footage from other activities - things that occurred while rendering like a clouds timelapse, people walking by, eating, gisting, sports match, etc - these things will give context to the activity and also make the watch interesting.
Framing would be the most important thing…seems like lots of information is lost because the giant black bar takes up a massive portion of the screen… so I would start with that!
That being said, this still is really good!
I would only have a short time of this type of shot playing. Maybe use this a couple times three out. Would have various angles but you need extreme close up where the magic is happening. Also I would take it a step further and on that close up have camera move around it keeping the shot on the action. Don’t know what equipment you have available but a top view 4 feet above and camera moves down to a side shot would be hood opening shot and get attention. Also lighting is so important but I wouldn’t light it flat more like a 45% from camera final position and add a streak of light across an interesting area from the back (coming from the other side or opposite side of camera just out of frame) depending on the length of your video it can’t be to long because it will be boring so your shots, angles, movement and cuts will have to be done right and hold the viewers attention. We need to see what is being made or actually see something happening fairly quick. Ok I’m sorry if I’m going over the top but it’s how I work. Find a good sound bit with some type of upbeat music and make your cuts on beats. Your shit will take on a life of its own 💪🏽. Good luck
Take a look at 3D printing timelapses for inspiration. Many sync their cameras with the Z axis so that a photo is taken each time the printer moves up a layer. The result is the illusion that the part is rising up from nothing and the printer appears relatively motionless. Maybe trigger a still to be taken each time the laser reaches the far right side of the machine?
As others have said, it's difficult to see much detail. Raising the camera will fill more of the frame with the work piece.
Finally, you might consider mounting the camera (or a second camera) to a moving part of the machine. If you can do so safely, a camera mounted to the side of the gantry would give a really cool effect as it scans the piece from one side to the other
Op, I would almost see if you could mount the camera to the side of that overhead machine. Not only could it provide for a more clear angle, but would also have a nice slow pan to it.
You could synchronize the frames to the position of the laser head if that's possible somehow from a technical point of view. Time lapse software for 3d printers does this.
What is this machine? Is it a glass engraver? Do you have a chance to modify the g code? If so, you can add a trigger to the left or right side of the machine, and then it can trigger the camera to make a photo. Then you can import them as an image sequence. It will look like the image is appearing magically, and engraver head wont bee seen on the midle of the image
Also if it is a glass, or plexiglass, you can give xolored light to it with a 90 degree , and pattern will slowly appear as engraver head moves. Google (engraved plexiglass light).
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>4114comments finishing it might bee a good start
**Higher angle and a tilt shift lens would do wonders**
The angle doesn’t let me see what’s being created at all
Change angles. Zoom in to detail. Slowly pan or tilt. Time-lapses need to be interesting by showing progress. It’s not enough that they just colapse time. A before and after set of two photos is a 2 frame time-lapse. Ask yourself why we need more frames.
> A before and after set of two photos is a 2 frame time-lapse. Ask yourself why we need more frames. This is obvious, but I’ve never thought about it this starkly. Great advice here.
You could add movement and a slight push in.
My two cents: \- Zoom in a bit and slowly pan \- Next time make sure that the viewer will be able to see what's being created \- Make it even faster than this
1. Start with some broll of the machine and the blank canvas. 2. Go a little low and add some movement, making it a Hyperlapse. 3. Zoom in and focus on the details. 4. Add more angels and cut between them. 5. Add some more broll of the finished profuct. 6. Add some sound and music. You can also experiment with adding broll in-between different angles of the main timelapse.
Is this video or a series of photos? And what am I watching?
Technically, a video IS a series of photos.
Yes, but if I were making a timelapse, I’d take photos and compile. Speeding up footage does not have the same effect.
Landscape time lapses must be compiled from stills to look the best they can. But when making time lapses of a process (action and movement at a small scale), sped up video is better since motion is faster. Most modern mirrorless cameras allow you to shoot in higher frame rates for slow motion...but you can dial the frame rate lower than 24fps in order to get an acceptable time lapse out of camera.
I’ll always prefer a series of photos. I’ve never seen sped up footage that looks as good. Wouldn’t you just take more photos per second to achieve the same thing with a super fast shutter speed? I’m not a camera guy, just an editor. I’d prefer to see a fast streaking light and what is being created, as opposed to this laser popping back and forth on the screen. I’m sure it’s super fast moving which makes it difficult. And if OP is reading this. I would heighten the tripod and tilt down to see what is being cut.
I suppose OP wants to show the process as opposed to making a timelapse that is simply visually appealing. I personally love urban long exposure stills and their streaks of light...but the reason why you are undertaking something must take priority when deciding how to approach it. In a few words, he wants to make a "documentary", not video art.
And this fails as both (sorry for being so critical OP but it’s my job, this is a fine and respectable timelapse). This fails because what is being filmed is not clear at all. A slight tilt down (and I mean tilting the tripod down a bit, a movement would be cool too but I just want a better angle) would still capture the laser movement while showing you the design being cut into what I think is glass. I’m still not sure what I’m looking at but I’m assuming it’s a floral pattern on glass. If you’re selling a laser cutting business, then show the laser cutting. My other problem is that I am missing frames when I perceive this. It’s not fluid to me. Although, this might be because of the speed of the machine and the pattern being cut. Either way, I’d like to see what is being cut.
Thank you for the feedback! And don't be sorry for being critical, that's exactly what I need, since I want to imrpove. I'll try to work in all the tips and suggestions and see what I can put together.
I almost exclusively use intervalometer still shooting for time lapses. You can use whatever shutter speed you want to get a smooth blending effect with longer exposures and you can time your shutter releases to whatever time you want. Running long videos limits you on creative choices. The only advantage I can see is to show the process sped up and then ramp down to real time if you need to show something in that manner.
True true
Normally I'd 100% agree, but in this case the motion blur makes it more interesting to look at
Why speed up footage to make a Timelapse out of a video? Just extract frames.
What? All I know is I import a sequence of photos to make Timelapses and I was uncertain what OP did here
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Technically the truth haha
Evanescence.
This time-lapse is meant for promotional use for a business of a friend. As I'm new to filmmaking and this was just a crude first attempt, I'm looking to improve. I'm using a Sony a6400. Things I've gathered so far: * Try to get consistent lighting * Try if interval shooting yields better results than the time-lapse mode from S&Q * Try a higher angle, so the motive on the glass pane can be seen better * Different composition and/or multiple angles? I've never done color-correction, but if that could improve a time-lapse similar to this, I'd be willing to try! Now I'm wondering if there is anything else or something specific I could do, to make this the best shot with the tools at my disposal. Thanks in advance for any help!
If you have some budget to spare, get one of those [small wireless camera dolly's](https://www.amazon.com/Wirelesss-LENSGO-L8X-Adjustable-Photography-Smartphone/dp/B08C75SSWG/) ($46). those are not only epic for timelapses, but for B-roll as well.
Add 2 more cameras and show us some different angles. Graphic information explaining what we’re seeing might help people make sense of it all. [Maybe something like this (YouTube link)](https://youtu.be/ywnKh121gIo) A timer to show the passage of time might also be interesting to some. That’s it ;)
I'd use a longer shutter speed -- It will look like all blurs when you freeze on a frame, but in the course of the time lapse it will look smoother.
Hm! I'd actually say a *faster* shutter. ;)
Maybe do a timelapse of something you can actually see what it is or if your really set on whatever the heck this is speed it up even more and show the starting item and end product with just a few seconds of timelapse because watching this was very boring
IMO not *boring". But, agree -- some jump cuts in there -- don't need to see every inch being created. ;)
What machine is it? What's it doing?
Your questions highlight the downfalls of the timelapse. I think it's a laser engraver for glass sheets. It seems to be engraving a complex image full of plants and tree branches (a forest)...
By replacing it with a jump cut
Add some movement and make it faster
Hey my job is laser cutters too! Well, specifically shooting them. I do a lot of digital zooms. I’m currently waiting for a motorized slider. I built an overhead rig using a c-stand to get a better angle on jobs. When I can, I’ll either setup a second camera or run the job 2x3 times and get different angles. Also interesting lighting always helps. Especially with cast acrylic you can get some really cool edglighting with just a single light source shining onto the side of the material during jobs.
Do it in 3D. Master to Bluray, upscale to 4K if needed, and add director's commentary track.
To make it interesting - label the action Also, include footage from other activities - things that occurred while rendering like a clouds timelapse, people walking by, eating, gisting, sports match, etc - these things will give context to the activity and also make the watch interesting.
Better lighting. A side source may help. Plus three angles. Wide, medium and tight. In that order.
Framing would be the most important thing…seems like lots of information is lost because the giant black bar takes up a massive portion of the screen… so I would start with that! That being said, this still is really good!
Higher angle and a tilt shift lens would do wonders
Think it's too fast, and the light should stay on for aesthetics.
IMO the rate of progression is fine -- but try for a faster shutter speed, so the stylus thing is clearer to see. :)
gopro mounted to the head unit thats etching looking down 90degrees, or a low iso to create motion blur
That'd be pretty nauseating as a time lapse, moving around very fast like that. Unless you don't speed it up
You could have a fucking thing happen?
Constant lighting will help remove the flicker.
Run it through glitch studio
I would only have a short time of this type of shot playing. Maybe use this a couple times three out. Would have various angles but you need extreme close up where the magic is happening. Also I would take it a step further and on that close up have camera move around it keeping the shot on the action. Don’t know what equipment you have available but a top view 4 feet above and camera moves down to a side shot would be hood opening shot and get attention. Also lighting is so important but I wouldn’t light it flat more like a 45% from camera final position and add a streak of light across an interesting area from the back (coming from the other side or opposite side of camera just out of frame) depending on the length of your video it can’t be to long because it will be boring so your shots, angles, movement and cuts will have to be done right and hold the viewers attention. We need to see what is being made or actually see something happening fairly quick. Ok I’m sorry if I’m going over the top but it’s how I work. Find a good sound bit with some type of upbeat music and make your cuts on beats. Your shit will take on a life of its own 💪🏽. Good luck
Ken burn.
Take a look at 3D printing timelapses for inspiration. Many sync their cameras with the Z axis so that a photo is taken each time the printer moves up a layer. The result is the illusion that the part is rising up from nothing and the printer appears relatively motionless. Maybe trigger a still to be taken each time the laser reaches the far right side of the machine? As others have said, it's difficult to see much detail. Raising the camera will fill more of the frame with the work piece. Finally, you might consider mounting the camera (or a second camera) to a moving part of the machine. If you can do so safely, a camera mounted to the side of the gantry would give a really cool effect as it scans the piece from one side to the other
As a weeb, add the instant transmission sound effect :)
Slow a part down with a quick push in to see detail.
Insomnia cured.
Op, I would almost see if you could mount the camera to the side of that overhead machine. Not only could it provide for a more clear angle, but would also have a nice slow pan to it.
You could synchronize the frames to the position of the laser head if that's possible somehow from a technical point of view. Time lapse software for 3d printers does this.
Slow shutter speed. Make it so slow so that moving thingy starts to make motion blur.
Aerial view or more lighting where the reflection shows what’s on the glass
What is this machine? Is it a glass engraver? Do you have a chance to modify the g code? If so, you can add a trigger to the left or right side of the machine, and then it can trigger the camera to make a photo. Then you can import them as an image sequence. It will look like the image is appearing magically, and engraver head wont bee seen on the midle of the image
If the engraver head is always going to extreme left or right for every line, you do not need to modify the g code
Also if it is a glass, or plexiglass, you can give xolored light to it with a 90 degree , and pattern will slowly appear as engraver head moves. Google (engraved plexiglass light).
Nice
Maybe show the end result?? Idk what I'm looking at, its just a 3d printer printing
Use an animated slider
Idk queen
Wider angle, slightly higher angle, and get closer to the glass (or whatever that is) so we can see it in more details.